Cyclist Insanity

In light of what I posted a few weeks ago, last week, this is a bit sad.

The Velib bike rental system has been hailed by Parisians and tourists alike for its convenience, as well as being a “green” alternative to getting around the French capital via taxicab, bus or metro. But the high cost of fixing, maintaining and, in many cases, replacing the fleet of about 20,000 bikes is proving too much for JCDecaux, the company that runs the program.

Of the 15,000 bicycles originally disbursed for the program, more than half have disappeared, reports the BBC, presumed to be stolen.

Though I'm not at all surprised. Put something worth even a little bit of money and it's a just a matter of time until they're either defaced, stolen or broken. But someone think of the cyclists.

Long live angry, rude cyclists.

City of Music

It happened on my second day. We were on a train back from Versailles. A man walked onto the train we were on caring a speaker. He turned it on, put the microphone to his lips and started singing. Among the classics he belted out was an off tune Sinatra rendition. It wasn't done particularly well but it set the mood.

It's events like these that make Paris so charming. Because it wasn't just on that train. In my four days, there was music everywhere we went. On the trains, on the subways, in the stations, in the restaurants.

What I liked the most was that it was all different kinds of music. American classics like Sinatra and singer songwriters. Spanish ballads and French accordion. It was nice to hear. Nicole rolled her eyes when we got on the subway late and night and were subjected to an accordion player directly in front of us asking us for money, but I thought it was Parisian. At least we got a nice show beforehand.

The band in the subway

"Yummy British Food" is Not an Oxymoron

When I came home for Christmas my family and friends all commented on the fact that I didn’t have a British accent. Undeterred, they remained on the lookout for subtle signs—words, expressions, interests or opinions—that would reveal my increasing Britishness. Aside from the occasional use of Tube,” “splendid,” and “pence” I think for now I’ve resisted the assimilation and managed to stay Canadian, eh?

But there are a few ways that I’ll admit to forsaking my country: my diet. I’ve never heard of British food being particularly good (haggis, though Scottish, springs alarmingly to my mind). But I’ve got to say, as a result of my residence cafeteria, I’ve developed a love of certain foods. Here are some:

1. Yorkshire pudding. In the British tradition of naming meals after deserts, comes Yorkshire pudding a food that is not pudding in fact but bread and quite lovely indeed! It’s shaped like a butter tart but hollow. What makes it amazing is the sweet sauce, topping or spread that they coat it with. It is divine. I raved about it for a week straight before my British friends knew what I was talking about.


2. Banoffee pie is unlike Yorkshire pudding, actually a pie and actually a desert. It’s made of pie crust with, bear with me here, bananas and toffee. And it’s exquisite. Originally, bananas and toffee were along the lines of peanut butter and oranges, and I wasn’t wild about the idea of mixing the two. But by God it’s not half bad. In fact it’s quite delicious. And for all you Love Actually buffs, it’s banoffee pie that Keira Knightley’s character offers to Mark when she comes to see the wedding video in his apartment.


3. Tea. This is not a secret nor really a new development as I've been drinking tea as an alternative to coffee since university. But here, no surprise, my intake and appreciation of tea has doubled or even tripled. I have at least one cup a day, usually two. And that's just at dinner. On particularly cold days I brew my own before school and maybe at night to keep me up and focusing on that next chapter. So far I've only had Earl Grey and English Breakfast Tea but I see myself venturing into more adventurous territory soon. Note to readers, Orange Pekoe, the variety that is common in North America is unknown here in Britain. I think it exists, just not under the same name.

4. Rice pudding. I tried to find the most appealing picture I could find. Not an easy task for this particularly dish. Those of you sensitive to texture, may need to take a pass on this one. They serve it in our canteen (what the Brit's call a cafeteria) but I'd never tried it. My friend once got a bowl full and by the end of the meal, his spoon was trapped had to be levered out. It was not appealing imagining that in my stomach. But last week, picking up a lunch I'd ordered after a late class, I was given rice pudding in a yogurt style container. And I was converted. It is amazing. It's made out of rice kernels and is a sort of paste-like dessert. It's sweet and the little rice kernels are a little surprise that I quite enjoy. I had the vanilla flavour but apparently there's others like strawberry and blueberry. I'll let you know if they're as good. It may look like something a baby eats, but trust me.

Image: The World Wide Gourmet and Dessert Comes First

Bikes: the European Transit System

A friend of mine posted a photo summarizing his two years in Europe. In it was a wall covered in graffiti and a bike lying against the wall. I don’t know about the graffiti, but I can tell you bikes are big here. And it doesn’t matter what country you’re in. I thought it was a Dutch thing in Amsterdam, until I started to get almost-run-over by bicycles in Brussels on a regular basis. They get special sections of the pavement to stick to. And woe is to the sorry soul who tramples on this sacred Earth. Many a time I was faced with the annoyed staccato “Brrring! Bring!” of a bike bell when I stepped onto the dark red brick that was “pour bicyclettes.”

Even here in London, they’re passionate about their bikes. A few days ago I stepped onto the street and was almost run over by one. I think he yelled, "Moron!" after our near fatal collision, but I can't be sure.

Aside from the rudeness of the cyclers themselves, I think bikes are a great part of Europe. They’re quick, fast, cheap, good for you and don’t emit pesky fossil fuels. And they’ve got it down to a science. In both Brussels and Lille there were Velo stations or Velib (pioneered in Paris) where you go to rent bikes. It works like renting a car but on a shorter term.

“To access the bikes, riders can select a one-day card for 1 euro, a weekly card for 5 euros or an annual card for 29 euros. After the purchase of an access card, riding for the first half-hour is free and a supplement of 1 euro will be charged for an additional half-hour, 2 euros for another 30-minutes and 4 euros for every addition half-hour after that. Example: a 25 minute trip = 0 euros, a 50 minute trip = 1 euro, an hour and 15-minute ride = 3 euros.” (source)

And it’s not just the French speakers. Barcelona and Rome have them and now London is thinking of tossing its hat in the ring. A big push for the bikes are that they reduce traffic jams in Europe’s massively congested city centres. Every time I see these stations I think what a great idea they are and that Canada should definitely do that. Well, it turns out we are.

In September, Montreal started a pilot program similar to the Velib program, called the BIXI, part bike, part taxi. It costs $28 a month and the city hopes to have 2,400 BIXIs by next spring. Stationnement de Montreal, the company that manages the city's on-street parking is picking up the $15 million tab and expects to recoup costs through membership fees (read here for more).

I’m game to see how the experiment goes, especially in the frigid Montreal winters. That’s a problem Paris never really had to deal with.

In fair London, where we lay our scene

Full of the excitement of being in London, living in London and studying in London, I wanted to do a bunch of London stuff. When we heard that the Globe Theatre was ending it’s season the following Sunday, my friend Nicole and her sister and I decided to make the most of cheap tickets. On a rainy (surprise surprise) Tuesday night we headed to the Globe to check out some premium theater.



The Globe is just across the Thames and based on the designs of the first Globe which was the theatre that Shakespeare played many of his masterpieces—think Shakespeare in Love, that’s the Globe. Though I’d wanted to see a Shakespearean play, none were available. Instead we saw Liberty a comedy-drama about four friends during the various phases of the French Revolution. It was spectacular. Toward the end, I was this close to shedding a tear.


The set-up of the theatre is pretty innovative. There are the stands which are in an oval around the stage. Then there are the “gallery” an empty section on the floor reserved for the “masses.” We were going to sit there—tickets were £5—except it was cold and you had to stand for almost three hours. And there’s one other thing. The unfortunate thing about the Globe is that it has no roof. I think it has to do with the idea of the people and 16th century conceptions of the theatre and bringing culture to the masses or something. In any case, it was raining and not warm, despite the fact that it had been very warm that day. So while the show was excellent, the next day I woke up with a sore throat that burgeoned into a pretty stellar cough. But it was worth it.

The Golden Triangle

When I was debating whether or not to go to Madrid before I went to Portugal, I asked a co-worker who’d been there. “Depends what you like,” he said. “If you like museums and culture, then Madrid is beautiful.” Although not a stellar review I decided to go for it. I like museums and Madrid is known for its “Golden Triangle:” the Museo del Prado, the more modern Reina Sofía National Museum and Art Center and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum of Art, known for its collection of Egyptians paintings and artifacts.

I read about the Prado and knew that its collection was extensive. I decided to check it out my first day. I purposely went after 5pm because that’s when entry is free. It seems like a few other people had the same idea.

This first visit was intended as a scouting exhibition. I wanted to see what it was like, get the layout, see what kind of stuff was in the collection and develop a strategy. There’s nothing I hate more than microwaving a museum. What is microwaving a museum you ask? The term was introduced to me by my friend Cassandra. Microwaving a museum is doing it really fast and only really getting to see the famous stuff. Just like when you microwave food, all the backup flavour is gone, when you microwave a museum you see the famous stuff and breeze through the other perhaps more interesting things. There are some museums you have to microwave for time constraints (ie. the Louvre). I microwaved the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, because we didn’t have enough time. But the Prado is known for so much beautiful art I wanted to take my time. I was in Madrid for four days, (minus one spent in Toledo) and on my own so I could take as much time as I wanted.


All in all I spent about 8 hours there. I spent two hours that first day perusing the first floor. Then I came back Tuesday (for free because I’m a European student), and spent another six hours seeing everything. Every floor, every painting, every sculpture. I even listened to the audio guide. I brought a snack in case I got hungry, which I did. Afterward I was so exhausted I sat in the gardens to rest my tired feet. But it was worth it. I saw not only the masterpiece’s but some unknown stuff that I liked. I developed an appreciation for Goya and highly recommend his Black paintings.

The next day, I checked out the Reina Sofia, the modern art museum. The Reina Sofia is known mostly for its Dali and Picassos. Those were all really interesting. Guernica is really moving once you know the context. Otherwise I feel you might thing it’s just odd—it is modern art after all. I may have experienced a bit of the prom effect because it was hyped so much. But there were other paintings that really resonated with me.

Dali’s Girl at a Window

Hermenegildo Camarasa’s “Retrato de Sonia Klamery."

Despite these favourites, I have to admit I microwaved this one a bit. After the first 8 or 9 rooms of Picassos and the Dalis, there’s just a lot of really modern art, as in squares of colour or coat hangers suspended on a wire. I walked by a ten foot shelf stacked with old books and asked myself how that was art. I can’t really handle things like that. I’m too much of a linear thinker. So I just walked past them, doing my best to assess the artistic quality in them for 2.5 seconds, then moved on.

Even the building is modern with a glass elevator and avant garde statues in the garden.

The Reina Sofia

View from the glass elevator

Statues in the garden

I didn't check out the Egyptian museum because a) I don't really care about Egyptian art, b) I didn't have time and c) I had to pay, which after free entrance into the Prado, I was not feeling.

Doing My Research

I’ll be moving to London in T minus twenty five days, and like the conscientious student I am, I have been doing some prep work. I’ve pre-registered for classes, settled my accommodations, memorized the appropriate Wikipedia entries on the LSE, Bloomsbury (my neighborhood), London and England, and upped my daily intake of tea (two cups a day in case you’re wondering). I’ve also been observing British culture. As I've mostly been surrounded by the French and Dutch (with some Italians and Germans at work), this has meant watching movies. If I am to be schooled in Britain, I should get to know and understand Britons. With that in mind I’ve been watching various British romantic comedies in the hopes that I’ll be able to understand their humor and talk like they do. So here are my picks for best movies set in and around London. (FYI: Many of the descriptions contain spoilers):

1. Notting Hill: What can I say about Notting Hill? You can’t really point to anything outstanding in it but it just leaves me with a warm glow every time I watch it. It’s got all the elements of an enjoyable movie: do-gooder protagonist who can’t seem to catch a break, check; likable yet vulnerable female lead who falls for our protagonist, check; crazy roommate to provide substantial comic relief, check; a dollop of British humor added by a gang of lovable co-stars, check; tons of plot twists, check; a bit of fantasy—who really thinks a movie star would fall for a travel bookshop owner from Notting Hill?—check; a catchy soundtrack (Ronan Keating, Elvis Costillo and Shania Twain), check. A plethora of gorgeous London scenes, check. And (SPOILER ALERT) a happy ending, check. What more could you want?
   
2. Sliding Doors. There’s nothing I love more than a woman picking herself up off the matt after being beaten and bruised (not literally) and living to fight another round. This time this comes in the form of a make-over montage where Helen cuts off and then dyes her hair blond after finding her boyfriend shagging another women. The movie puts a new spin on the tradition phoenix-rising-from–the-flames motif by showing two sides to Helen’s life which is quite intriguing. A bit too intense to be that flighty flick you turn on to feel good. And yes, it stars Gwyneth Paltrow, but her accent is quite good. And John Hannah’s James more than makes up for that with his do-good earnestness. And Jeanne Tripplehorn is hilarious as the brash American.
3. Love, Actually. Major points are given for including my five favorite things in one movie: Colin Firth, Hugh Grant, international politics (the "Love Actually moment"), Portuguese people and Christmas. Top points for the scenes of London decorated for Christmas. And the interwoven stories are especially well done. Kudos to the filmmakers for showing all aspects of love: loss of love, love doing you wrong, unrequited love, friendship love and young love. I had to subtract points for including the story line of Colin, the googlieyed Brit keen on going to America where he’s convinced he’s “Prince William without the scary family,” and for guest staring Kiera Knightly.
4. Bridget Jones’ Diary. All around great movie. Great pick-me-up factor as throughout you’ll be thinking, “Well, at least my life’s not as bad as hers.” Hilarious dialogue and instant messaging sequences are pretty cute. The plot developments are rather predictable but it’s not that we’re particularly concerned with. Just frothy and ridiculous enough to be watched over and over again. I had to take points off for the choice Renée Zellweger as Bridget. The more I watch it, the less I like her accent and she's slightly annoying in it. But she did gain like a million pounds for the role, so we should give credit where credit is due. Plus Colin Firth AND Hugh Grant star. And Grant is great as the crude and suave Daniel Cleaver, instead of playing the dashing romantic lead (for the millionth time—I love you in them Hugh, but show some range my man). This marks the beginning of my love affair with Colin Firth. It’s been love ever since.
5. Sense and Sensibility. I had originally kept this spot open for when I saw Four Weddings and a Funeral but that was a bitter disappointment. So, instead, the last spot goes to Sense and Sensibility. A dark horse pick I know, but it's quite good. A stellar cast--Emma Thompson, a young Kate Winslet, Alan Rickman, and yes, Hugh Grant--but it's also mixed in with a little old school Jane Austen fun complete with fancy dress balls and snobby British high society. I know Pride and Prejudice is a theme in Bridget's Jones, but this is the real Jane Austen movie. Complete with eighteenth century empire waist dresses, high collars and top hats. The action is a bit slow and the dialogue sparse for Thompson, but it's a solid movie and worth a look.

Honorable Mention goes to:

1. About a Boy. Stars Hugh Grant and was therefore a worthy contender and the dialogue was hilarious at times. But it just didn’t resonate with me. Too melodramatic to really be a feel good comedy. I don’t want to watch this one over and over. Also, five is a small number and there just aren’t enough spots for everyone.
2. Pride and Prejudice. I badly wanted to include this into my list, and as I don’t particularly care for the Kiera Knightly version, I'm talking about the BBC miniseries which is many times better. But alas, it is a TV mini-series and does not fit the aforementioned movie criteria. But still very worth a watch. All 6 hours of it. In case you’re still on the fence, I’ll say this: Colin Firth. ‘Nuff said.
   

Those are my picks. Yes, I am aware that the majority contain Hugh Grant and that most are created by the same people but I don't care. I like what I like. Thoughts?

In the middle of the street?

I was walking down a shopping street on a busy Saturday and saw this lovely structure.

Maybe one of the reasons Belgium (and Europe) had a declining birth rate?
Probably not. In any case, I think we need them in Canada...