Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Going Dutch

Back in July I went to Amsterdam for the weekend and it was another example of successfully managing expectations. I went into the weekend thinking I’d go to Amsterdam because I might as well; I was close by and a bit curious of what it was like. I’m not big on drugs and prostitutes, so I didn’t think Amsterdam would hold much allure for me. But I was wrong. I can honestly say Amsterdam is a beautiful and truly cosmopolitan city and I enjoyed my stay very much.

We arrived Saturday and started our visit with the Van Gogh Museum. We had been warned (by the guidebooks and people) that long lines were customary and to go either early in the morning or late in the day. Being the rebels we are, we went right in the middle of the day. There was a line, but it was quickly (five minutes or so) dispatched with. That is, until we got inside and realized they were talking about the other lines. There are three floors to the Van Gogh and the bottom holds most of Van Gogh’s later, better known works and that floor was packed. There was a giant line, five or six bodies thick with people standing facing the fall looking at painting after painting lining the wall. In this line is where I took this somewhat illegal picture.


After an excellent dinner of Surinamese food, we took a stroll towards the center of town (and by stroll I mean an hour and a half walk), taking in the sights and sounds of the city at sunset. This is about the time I fell in love with Amsterdam. But I can’t quite explain why. It must be the water and canals and boats. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.


Then, we somehow landed in the Red Light District. This no doubt had something to do with the fact that three of my companions were of the male species. Now, when you think Amsterdam you automatically think Red Light District and you think it can’t actually be like how you imagine it. But it’s exactly how you imagine it: loud, ostentatious, rambunctious and tasteless. There are neon signs everywhere advertising sex toys and marijuana, men screaming at you to “come see the show” and women standing in windows clad only in lingerie and stern looks on their faces. Frankly, I don’t understand how men find any of them attractive as they look so bored. But then the Red Light District isn’t made for females as is obvious from the plenitude of sex show signs blinking all around and the complete absence of males in the windows. We wondered around there for a while, gaping at the spectacle of it, went to a bar, then staggered back to the hostel exhausted.


The next day we started fresh in the morning at Anne Frank's house. We waited in a massive (40 minutes!) line outside while it poured rain. While in line, I made friends with a Jewish South African guy backpacking through Europe before he started his MA in Scotland in September. He was researching hedge funds, so we chatted about that for a bit. Once inside, I was surprised at how well done the museum was. The house is beautifully maintained and the exhibits were particularly striking and there’s a nice mix of audio/visual to the exhibit that captures your interest. The last room, where her father talks of how he learned more about his daughter through her journal, was especially moving.

After a stroll to the main square we met up with Leandra, a friend of Matt’s who had been living in Amsterdam for a month. She proved to be an excellent tour guide and took us to this amazing little pancake restaurant for lunch where I had banana and chocolate pancake.

The last morning in Amsterdam we spent at the Rijksmuseum. It was right across from our hostel and we’d walked by it every day but until that morning, we hadn’t planned on going inside. But it was a good thing we did. It was one of the best museums I’ve been to. Honestly, I liked it better than the Van Gogh (sacrilege to art lovers, I know). But it had really cool historical artifacts but still had the requisite Rembrandt and Vermeer (for the Night Watch, they have detailed explanations of the history, style, and restoration of the painting). The free audio guide is really good and the lines were substantially smaller. I left with a much greater respect for the Dutch.


Monday was our last day in the city and we’d planned to take a boat ride along the canals. But since it was raining cats and dogs as soon as we woke up and didn’t let up until our bus pulled out of the station, we couldn’t. Instead we split up for a while. Leandra, Dave O’Neill and I went to do some last minute sightseeing. We checked out the coffee shop that was in Ocean’s 12.

Then we perused the tulip market for some famous Dutch tulips.


And we hung out in Rembrandtplatz.


Then we headed home.

Looking back, I'm really happy with the trip. I saw everything I wanted to see and felt like I got to experience the city too. Amsterdam has something for everyone: drugs, prostitutes, tulips, beautiful scenery, vibrant nightlife, nice people. There are areas where you walk down the street and see coffee shops or giant marijuana plants in neon signs but I found them endearing rather than seedy or gaudy. It’s just a part of Amsterdam.

The only compliant I have against the city is the weather. We arrived Saturday morning and left Monday night and it rained every single day. And not simply showers like in Brussels that end as soon as they start. No, these were long, monsoon-style rains that last hours. All I can say is thank God for my extra pair of socks.

5 comments:

Unknown said...

That's the Netherlands for you - not too hot, not too cold, just rainy. My dad still complains about the rain, and he hasn't lived in Holland for 40 years.

Dee said...

That's the best way to describe it. They should make that their slogan. It's weird though because it'll rain all day, and then at 5pm, the sun will start to shine and it'll be nice.

Gabbo said...

Anne Frank's House was easily the most memorable (pulling at the heart strings) part of the trip.

Also, that shoe... We told you yellow was not your enemy ;)

Anonymous said...

I hope you FedEx some of the tulip bulbs to your Mother......I am looking at this at lunch and let me tell you - I really go for for that pancake about now.

Dee said...

The pancake was phenomenal. I had a great hot chocolate too because it was so cold. It was lunch
p.s. Dulce is that you?